Split Loom Tube

Q: What's the difference between split loom and non-split conduit?
Split loom has a slit running down its length, you push cables in or pull them out mid-run without dismantling the loom or unthreading connectors. That flexibility comes at the cost of sealing: because the wall is slit, it isn't rated against water or dust the way non-split conduit is. Non-split conduit is a closed tube, cables are fed end-to-end during assembly, and once fitted it stays IP68 sealed. Use split loom for looms you'll add to, modify, or repair later; use [conduit-black-non-split] for exposed, wet or fully-sealed runs (chassis, underbody, engine bay).

Q: What size split loom do I need?
Match the tube's nominal bore to how many cables you're bundling. 7mm and 10mm suit single sensor leads or 2–4 light-gauge wires; 13mm and 16mm cover a standard automotive harness bundle; 20mm and 25mm handle heavier bundles like dual-battery wiring or a full camper / canopy loom. Round up if you're between sizes, cables sit better with room to move than jammed in tight.

Q: Is split loom waterproof at all?
No. The slit down the length means water and dust can get to the cables underneath, so split loom has no IP rating. It's a tidying and abrasion-resistance product, not a sealing product. Use it inside cabins, dashboards, canopies and other dry protected spaces; use non-split conduit ([conduit-black-non-split]) anywhere sealing matters.

Q: What does 'flame retardant' actually mean?
The polypropylene copolymer is self-extinguishing, remove the flame source and it stops burning on its own instead of continuing to combust. It's not fireproof; a sustained heat source will still eventually damage it. In automotive terms it means an incidental short or arc against the loom won't turn the tube itself into fuel for the fire.

Q: What does RoHS compliant mean?
RoHS (Restriction of Hazardous Substances) is a recognised standard limiting lead, mercury, cadmium and other hazardous materials in manufactured components. RoHS compliance means this tube is made without those restricted substances, relevant for OEM and export applications.

Q: Can it handle engine bay heat?
Rated for continuous use from −10°C to +90°C, which covers engine bay and cabin temperatures for most applications. For short runs right next to exhaust or turbo components, route it clear of direct contact, the tube itself holds up to 90°C continuous, not higher. For higher-temperature runs, look at braided fiberglass or heat-shrink sleeving instead.

Q: Will it protect against abrasion on chassis rails and firewall edges?
Yes, that's one of its main jobs. The corrugated wall resists point-load abrasion far better than bare cable insulation. Where the loom passes through a sharp edge (firewall grommet, chassis punch-through), the split loom takes the wear instead of the wire underneath. Add cable clips or ties every 300–400mm to stop the loom sliding out of place.

Q: Can I cut it to length with regular scissors?
Smaller bores (7mm, 10mm) cut cleanly with sharp side cutters or heavy-duty scissors. Larger bores (16mm+) are easier with a small handsaw or a rotary tool for a clean square edge. A clean cut sits flush against connectors and doesn't fray back over time.

Q: How is it sold?
Sold per metre, order the length you need for each size, no minimum and no fixed spool size. Buy a metre or two extra if you're routing anything complex; scrap offcuts always find a use later.

Q: Can it be used inside my cabin or dashboard?
Yes, it's a common pick for tidying dashboard and centre-console harnesses, since the split lets you add or swap accessory wiring later without pulling the dash apart. The self-extinguishing rating is a plus in an enclosed cabin environment.