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Home / Lighting / Driving & light bars

Battery isolator switch, red lever on black square housing, two rear M10 stud terminals visible

Elevate Automotive

Battery Isolator Switch — 200A On/Off 12V-24V

ACX3455

200A continuous battery isolator switch for 12V and 24V DC systems. SPST on/off lever, 55mm panel cutout, two M10 stud terminals. Suits 4WDs, caravans, marine helms and workshop test rigs.

200A continuous
12V and 24V DC
55mm panel cutout

$59.00

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Universal fitmentBattery isolator switch for 12V and 24V DC systems

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A surface-mount battery master switch that isolates the main cable on a single-flick lever. Rated to 200A continuous so it carries the main feed from a cranking battery, auxiliary bank or dual-battery setup to a starter, winch, inverter or distribution block. Fits workshop test rigs, 4WD canopies, caravan battery boxes, marine helms and off-grid solar sheds.

The lever is red and sits proud of a black housing so the on/off state reads at a glance. Two rear M10 stud terminals take ring-lug cables sized for the load. Panel cutout is 55mm; the switch surface-mounts behind the panel with the lever accessible from the front. Compact enough for a dash or bulkhead; roomy enough that heavy ring lugs clear the body.

This is a single-pole on/off switch, not a battery selector. One circuit in, one circuit out. Fit a correctly-rated main fuse (MEGA 100A to 300A matched to your cable size) between the battery post and the switch so the circuit sees overcurrent protection, and size the cable to the load, not just the switch rating.

Pairs with

  • 200A continuous — carries main battery feed to starter, winch or inverter
  • SPST lever — single-flick on/off, reads at a glance
  • 12V and 24V — single switch covers both common vehicle voltages
  • M10 stud terminals — takes ring lugs up to 00 B&S / 70mm² cable
  • 55mm panel cutout — surface mounts to dash, bulkhead or battery box

Electrical

Continuous: 200A

Voltage: 12V and 24V DC

Switch Action: SPST on/off

Positions: 2

Construction

Terminals: 2 × M10 stud

Housing: Impact-grade plastic

Lever: Red paddle

Mounting

Cutout: 55mm

Mount: Surface, 4 screws

Weight: 0.25kg

Battery isolator switch for 12V and 24V DC systems
12V and 24V DC main battery circuits
Starter, winch, inverter or distribution-block feeds
Not for 240V AC mains — DC-rated contacts only
Not a dual-battery selector — single circuit in, single circuit out

Q: What does 'SPST' actually mean on a battery isolator?
Single Pole, Single Throw. One wire in, one wire out, one lever that opens or closes that single circuit. Think of it as a plain on/off tap for the main battery cable. It is not a selector that chooses between two batteries, and it is not a cutout that trips automatically. You flick it, the circuit is live; flick it back, the circuit is dead.

Q: What does '200A continuous' cover?
That is the current the contacts will carry all day without heating up or welding. In practical terms it covers almost any 4WD, caravan or boat accessory load: a 2000W inverter at 12V draws around 200A at full tilt, a winch under moderate pull sits around 150A to 200A, and a mixed accessory bank with fridge, lights and charger draws well under 100A. Short cranking surges above 200A are tolerated briefly but are not what the switch is rated for continuously.

Q: What is the difference between this and the Baxters 125A/300A master switch with the removable key?
Two different jobs. This 200A lever switch is a plain mechanical on/off for an auxiliary or main battery feed; the lever stays put but is not lockable. The pin-locator switch pulls out a key when it is in the off position, which locks the vehicle in a disconnected state for workshop service or anti-theft. If you need a lockout for compliance or security, use the pin-locator. If you just want a cheap, reliable disconnect you can throw by hand, this one does the job: [battery-master-switch-off-on-with-pin-locator]

Q: Is this suitable for lithium batteries?
Yes, as a main disconnect on the output side of the BMS. Lithium chemistry does not change what a mechanical switch does, as long as the current and voltage are within rating. Do not use this switch to break current while the lithium pack is sinking a surge above 200A continuous: size the switch to the actual steady-state draw, not the pack's peak capability.

Q: Can I use it to isolate dual batteries?
Only as a plain disconnect on one of the two batteries. It cannot select between batteries. For a dual-battery setup where you want to run from Battery 1, Battery 2 or Both, use a 4-position battery selector switch instead. If you just want to disconnect the auxiliary battery for storage or service, fit one of these on the auxiliary main feed.

Q: Can it be used in marine applications?
Yes for interior installs: behind a helm panel, inside a battery box or in a dry locker. The contacts and body are suited to the vibration and voltage range of a boat's DC system. We do not have a published IP rating from the supplier so do not install it on an exposed deck or in a bilge where it will see spray or standing water. Mount it under cover.

Q: What size cable and lug do I need?
The studs are M10 so you need a ring lug with a 10mm hole. For a true 200A continuous feed, run 00 B&S / 70mm² copper cable minimum; for shorter runs or lower sustained loads, 2 B&S / 35mm² handles up to around 150A at short length. Always size cable to the load and the run length, not just the switch's maximum. See: [00b-s-single-core-battery-cable-black-sheath]

Q: Does it need its own fuse?
Yes, fit a main fuse at the battery post upstream of the switch. The switch is a disconnect, not an overcurrent device: if the cable downstream shorts, the switch will happily pass thousands of amps and weld its contacts closed. Match the fuse to the cable size: MEGA 100A for 2 B&S, 150A for 1 B&S, 200A for 1/0 B&S, 300A for 00 B&S. See: [series-of-mega-fuse]

Q: How do I mount it?
Cut a 55mm hole in the panel for the body, then use the four corner holes in the base to screw it to the panel face. The lever stays on the outside, the stud terminals project through to the back. Keep the terminals clear of other metal; a plastic terminal cover is cheap insurance against accidental shorts from dropped tools.

Q: Will it switch 240V mains?
No. The contacts are rated for DC only. 240V AC mains work in Australia is a licensed electrician's job under AS/NZS 3000. Elevate holds EC17073 (Building & Energy WA) if you need mains work done; use a mains-rated isolator for AC circuits, not this one.

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